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"Selvom det lyder modstridende, så er alle domesticerede dyr vilde af hjertet. Hvis vi gør os den ulejlighed at forstå denne vilde side bedre, vil vores liv og vores kæledyrs liv blive meget mere lykkeligt".
En træners syn på manerer og mad...
http://www.brisbanetimes.com.au/national/fur-babies-why-treating-our-dogs-like-our-kids-is-bad-for-everyone-20170413-gvkgxx.html
Alle hunde “taler” til hinanden, til sine ejere og til alle andre de møder. Deres natur er utrolig høflig, og de er fantastisk observante.
Vi kunne lære utrolig meget om hunde, om os selv og hinanden ved at blive bedre til at observere. Det er langt lettere sagt end gjort. For at være god til at observere skal man bruge øjnene og vi mennesker er for længst blevet for vant til at bruge stemmen.
Hunde sender signaler til os konstant, hvad enten de er glade, forventningsfulde, trætte eller utilfredse.
Dæmpende signaler
De vigtigste og mest brugbare at kende, er de dæmpende signaler. Hunde sender dæmpende signaler til andre for at vise, at de er venlige. De bruger dem også, hvis vi eller andre hunde er for frembrusende, og “uhøflige”.
AT DREJE HOVEDET
AT GABE
SNUSE I JORDEN
FLAKKE / BLINKE LANGSOMT MED ØJNENE
AT VENDE BLIKKET BORT
AT VENDE SIDEN / RYGGEN TIL
AT GÅ I BUE
AT STÅ HELT STILLE
AT SÆTTE / LÆGGE SIG
AT SLIKKE SIG OM SNUDEN
AT SMASKE
LEGESTILLING
AT LØFTE DEN ENE POTE
AT GÅ IMELLEM
AT RYSTE SIG
AT MARKERE
BRUGE OMDIRIGERET ADFÆRD
AT SMILE / KNIBE ØJNE SAMMEN
AT LOGRE LANGSOMT
Truende signaler
Hunde bruger altid dæmpende signaler, før den reagerer stærkere. Kommer der ikke svar fra den anden part, hvad enten det er en hund eller et menneske, vil hunden begynde at vise truende signaler. Virker de truende signaler heller ikke, vil hunden forstærke signalerne, og først som sidste udvej, vil den bide fra sig.
DIREKTE ØJENKONTAKT
LANGSOM GANG
HØK OG STIV HALEFØRING - UDEN LOGREN
KNURREN UDEN AT VISE TÆNDER
VISE TÆNDER
KNURREN MED VISTE TÆNDER
SNAPPEN EFTER MODPARTEN
ANGREB MED BID
Forkerte signaler
Vi mennesker bruger ofte “uhøfligt” kropssprog til og omkring vores hunde. Signaler vi sender med god mening bliver opfattet modsat. De vigtigste signaler vi bør undgå er:
DIREKTE ØJENKONTAKT
AT GÅ DIREKTE MOD HUNDEN
AT SMILE
AT STÅ FOROVERBØJET OVER HUNDEN
AT RÆKKE ARME UD EFTER HUNDEN
AT TAGE HUNDEN I FAVNEN
AT FASTHOLDE DEN
Kilde: www.omhunden.dk
SE HUNDESPROG I BILLEDER HER
Oplæg til foredrag om "Farlige hunde" med Anders Hallgren: Bedømmelse af farlige hunde Hunde er ikke farlige. De er udrustet med stærke bidehæmninger og advarer gentagende gange, inden de presses ud i at bruge vold. Enkelte hunde har dog vist sig at være så aggressive, at de kan anses for at være farlige. (Sammenlign med mennesket). Det er vigtigt at stille den rigtige diagnose. En hund er ikke til fare for mennesker eller andre hunde fordi ejeren har et dårligt lederskab, som den mest almindelige diagnose lyder i dag. Ligeledes udgør hunden heller ikke en fare, fordi den har en "dårlig mentalitet", som fortidens mode-diagnose lød. De ting, der gør en hund aggressiv er frem for alt smerte, sygdom, hormonelle fejl, et liv i et socialt dårligt miljø og dårlige erfaringer. Alt dette kan man kortlægge, og det er netop, hvad moderne hundepsykologer/adfærdsbehandlere gør i dag. Aggressivitet Aggressivitet er et begreb, som er omgærdet af alt fra tabuer til mysticisme, fra tværsikre udtalelser til usikkerhed, fra farligt til naturligt, fra forkert til rigtigt. Der stilles store krav til uddannelse og etiske forhold hos den, der skal bedømme en "farlig hund" og måske afgøre hundens skæbne. Aggression har mange facetter Aggressivitet er ikke bare en ting, men en mængde forskellige udtryk, meget varierende og afhængigt af flere indre og ydre faktorer. Den grundlæggende hensigt, ifølge en etologisk definition, er at øge afstanden mellem individer. Afstandsøgende adfærd og signaler har også mange varianter og strækker sig fra flugt til alvorlige bid. Først når man har fastsat graden af aggression, kan man foretage en vurdering af en hunds adfærd. Mange teorier om årsager til aggression Der findes mange teorier, som har ambitioner om at forklare en hunds aggressivitet. Flere er desværre så uvidenskabelige at det risikere at føre til fejlbehandling eller til og med aflivning. Til de mest almindelige hører dominansteorien og mentalitets-fejl-teorien, som vi skal se nærmere på. ”Farlig” – ofte kun i beskuerens øjne. En hunds aggressive udspil er i første omgang en skræmmetaktik. Man kan lidt generaliserende sige. at det meste af den aggressivitet vi ser en hund udvise, bare er teater. Hunde er nemlig ekstremt bidehæmmede. De lyder så skræmmende og ser så vrede ud, netop for at slippe for at gribe til de farligere våben, tænderne, når de gør et udfald. Så jo mere lyd der kommer fra hunden, desto mindre er risikoen i virkeligheden for, at den vil bide, så længe man respekterer de tydelige signaler. Kritiske situationer Der findes situationer, hvor hunde kan blive aggressive, og hvor det er helt naturligt for arten. Hvis man ikke har kendskab til disse, risikerer man, at en hund bliver fejlbedømt med de konsekvenser, det kan føre med sig.
Læs evt mere om Anders Hallgren her
Stress er blevet en folke-sygdom i Danmark. Men faktisk er det også i høj grad en hunde-sygdom. Alt for mange mennesker går ned med stress, fordi krav, negative omgivelser, for mange daglige gøremål bliver for hårde.
Resultatet er at immunforsvaret bliver svækket og vi får infektioner, allergi, hudproblemer, migræne, nerveproblemer, spiseproblemer, m.m. Samtidig bliver vi lettere irritable, vrede og har kortere lunte. Vi takler ikke længere dagligdagen og de gøremål vi sætter os for.
Hunde fungerer nøjagtigt på samme måde. De får de samme symptomer, samme helseskavanker, og samme adfærd. De takler ikke de høje krav i dagligdagen og får stress.
Mennesker med stress får at vide, at de skal gå hjemme og slappe rigtig meget af og lave ingenting i flere dage, uger, sågar år.
Behandlingen af hunde burde være nøjagtig den samme. Desværre er der mange der forsøger at behandle med endnu mere aktivitet og højere krav.
Resultatet er en utrolig stresset og pint hund. Stressede hunde havner ofte i kategorien problemhunde, som risikerer at blive aflivet, pga. uvidenhed om at den faktisk blot er stresset.
Vi er utrolig gode til at piske en stemning op omkring vores hunde. Vi gør det dagligt og flere gange om dagen.
Hvad vi ikke tænker over er, at vi bevidst stresser vores hunde op i det røde felt. Når det sker daler koncentrationsniveauet og indlæringsevnen til nær nul.
De hører ikke efter og kan ikke andet end at reagere på deres adrenalin.
Eksempler
Når vi kommer hjem fra arbejde er vi overpositive og bruger minimum 5 minutter på at være helt oppe og køre. Vi hilser på hunden og opfordrer den til at være “overglad”.
Det samme gælder ved følgende
Når gæster ankommer
Når et andet familiemedlem kommer hjem
Når hunden skal gå tur
Når der er en kat eller et pindsvin i haven
Når hunden får mad
Men hvad vi let kan falde ned over bagefter tager langt længere tid hos en hund. Adrenalin shocket er så voldsomt hos hunde, for at sikre overlevelse. De skal kunne løbe langt og hurtigt for at komme væk fra farer, eller for at kunne løbe et bytte op. Deres stresniveau er derfor langt mere følsomt end vores.
Hunde kan stresses op på mellem 2-15 minutter ved ovenstående eksempler. Så topper den og din hund er stresset. Resultatet er en hund der laver ALLE de ting du ikke ønsker.
Og det tager altså hunde 2-6 dage før at hundens stresniveau er stabilt igen, for hunden ved ikke hvordan den skal slappe af igen.
Flere adfærdseksperter har udtalt at hunde ofte trænger til en weekend. Det passer i allerhøjeste grad. Hver gang din hund har været helt oppe og ringe, trænger den til ro og afslapning, fuldstændig som os selv når vi har deltaget i en marathon.
En god huskeregel er, at give sin hund “weekend” efter træning, eller andre større begivenheder.
Hvad kan forårsage stress hos hunde
Besøgende
Stressede ejere
For høje krav
Overstimulering (for meget træning, leg, kommandoer, øvelser etc)
Omplacering
Når vi er sure, irritable etc.
Sult, tørst, mangel på ro og sove
Ikke nok bevægelses frihed
Store ændringer i hverdagen (højtider, ferier etc)
Løbetid - både for tæver og hanner
For meget ansvar
At ikke kunne få lov til at løse konflikter
Alt der går stærkt (trafik, apportlege, cykling etc)
Selskaber med mange mennesker
At være alene hjemme for længe eller i for tidlig alder
Kilde: www.omhunden.dk
Boldgale....? Boldglade......?
Boldgale hunde har det ikke
sjovt…….
En hund,
der er fuldstændig fikseret på at kaste bold, pind eller andet, er i
virkeligheden en meget stresset hund. Men mange hundeejere ved ikke, at de kan
skade hunden ved at fortsætte med lige netop den leg. De forveksler stress med
glæde.
Stort set
alle hundeejere kaster bolde eller pinde med deres hund. Men for nogle af
hundene gør legen faktisk mere skade end gavn. For hvis hunden er så fikseret
på for eksempel bolden, at den er fuldstændig ligeglad med alt andet, er det i
virkeligheden et tegn på, at den er dybt stresset af legen. Og så er det på
tide at holde op.
– Det er
især jagthunde og hyrdehunde, der kan blive boldfikserede, men det kan ske for
alle hunderacer. Årsagen er, at hundens jagtinstinkt tager overhånd, så hunden
ikke har øje for andet end at jage byttet. Det frigør stresshormoner i hele
kroppen, og det tager faktisk et par dage, før stresshormonerne igen er nede på
et acceptabelt niveau. Så hvis du spiller bold med en boldfikseret hund hver
dag, får du en hund med et konstant forhøjet stressniveau. Og det er bestemt
ikke sundt, siger veterinærsygeplejerske og hundeadfærdsinstruktør Caroline
Holse, der til daglig arbejder på Skovshoved Dyreklinik.
Ejerne
ved det ikke
I sit
arbejde møder hun med jævne mellemrum hunde, der er stressede, og som har svært
ved at falde til ro.
–
Desværre er ejerne som regel ikke klar over, at hunden ikke kan tåle at spille
bold. De fleste tror, hunden bare er glad, så derfor fortsætter de med legen i
den bedste mening, forklarer Caroline.
Hunden er
ofte alene hjemme i mange timer. Når ejeren så kommer hjem, er hunden fuld af
energi, og for ejeren er det helt oplagt at motionere hunden ved hjælp af en
bold. Måske oven i købet med bolde, som bliver kastet med en plastikarm, der
sender bolden rigtig langt væk, så hunden virkelig kan spæne af sted.
Slider
kroppen
–
Problemet er ikke alene, at den boldfikserede hund får stress af det. Den
bliver heller ikke stimuleret mentalt. Den får hverken snuset til noget eller
oplevet noget som helst andet end at jagte bolden. Resultatet er en fysisk træt
og stresset hund, der ikke får brugt sin hjerne, siger hun.
Et andet
problem ved boldlegene er, at de rent faktisk slider hårdt på kroppen.
– Hunden
laver voldsomme opbremsninger, når bolden skal fanges. Og det kan gå ud over
ben og led. Hvis man så oven i købet bruger tennisbolde, risikerer hunden også
at få tandskader. Overfladen på en tennisbold bliver nemlig fyldt med skidt og
grus, der ødelægger tænderne, understreger Caroline.
På
nedtrapning
Hendes
råd til ejere af en boldfikseret hund er at sætte den på nedtrapning. Det vil
sige, at du skal spille mindre og mindre bold med den for til sidst at stoppe
helt.
I stedet
er træning og stimulering samt de daglige gåture det bedste for din hund. Spred
for eksempel dens tørfoder ud på græsset, og lad den selv finde det.
– Hunde
har godt af også at bruge hovedet, hvis de skal blive trætte på den gode måde,
siger hun.
Læs din
hund
– Og så
skal man i øvrigt lære at læse sin hund, inden det er gået så galt, at hunden
er blevet fuldstændig fikseret på en bestemt leg, siger Caroline, der også
taler af egen erfaring. Hun har selv en borderterrier, som ikke kan tåle
boldlege.
– Det
opdagede jeg ret hurtigt. Hun kommer helt op at køre og splitter i øvrigt
bolden ad bagefter. Så i dag får hun højst lov til at lege med en bold en gang
om måneden, og når jeg så kan se, at hun er ved at blive stresset, bytter jeg
med en godbid og tager den igen, fortæller hun.
Andre
fikseringer
Der er
meget andet end lige bolde, som hunde kan blive fikseret på. Nogle er helt
besat, når de får et pivedyr i munden. Andre bliver stressede af trækkelege. Og
både hunde og katte kan rent faktisk også blive fuldstændig kulrede af at lege
med lysstråler.
– Især
for katte er det dybt frustrerende, hvis ikke en jagt afsluttes med, at byttet
fanges. Så selvom det er sjovt, skal man lade være med at lege med sine kæledyr
med laserstråler, lyder rådet.
Artiklen
har været bragt i Dyrefondet 3/2012.
Gennem tiden er der opstået en del misforståelser, som bunder i gamle uddaterede undersøgelser, ulve i fangeskab, gamle militære træningsprincipper samt velmenende råd som er videregivet fra hundeejer til hundejer i generationer.
Lederskabsbegrebet er også vidt diskuteret og nogle er fejlagtigt af den forståelse, at en leder kun er leder i kraft at sætte de andre på plads, dominere dem osv.
Her er nogle af de myter som er opstået gennem tiden og stadig lever i bedste velgående. Hjælp os med at sætte en stopper for de myter, det vil gavne forholdet mellem hund og menneske og opbygge en større tillid.
Det er en myte at hunden skal spise sidst
Hunden ser dig ikke som leder pga. at du spiser før den. I en ulveflok vil hvalpe få mad først for at sikre deres overlevelse. De voksne vil enten helt undvære mad eller få meget lidt, hvis der er mangel på føde. At spise før hunden vil altså ikke give nogen signaler om lederskab.
Sørg for der er ro og fred når hunden spiser, og giv den tid til at nyde det, frem for at stresse den unødvendigt med ventetid.
Nogle hunde fungerer fint med at have mad stående hele dagen. Andre hunde ville spise sig halvt fordærvet og skal have det fordelt i måltider. Nogle hunde fungerer bedst med at få maden samtidig med familien – du ville nok også have svært med at lade være med at sidde og tigge – hvis du var sulten.
Mad er en livsnødvendig ressource, som kan bruges til at lære hunden en masse tricks og kommandoer. Det er dog ikke hensigtsmæssigt at sulte hunden inden træning, da det stresser hunden unødigt.
Det er en myte at hunden altid skal gå sidst gennem døren
Det er nogle gange praktisk at hunden venter med at gå ud af døren til du giver den lov, men det gør dig ikke til lederen. Andre gange er det mindre praktisk, eksempelvis hvis hunden vil ud i haven, og du er nødt til at gå ud før den.
Hvis du har det fint med at din hund går ud af døren før dig, så er der ingen grund til at ændre på det.
Såfremt hunden gerne vil ud af døren, kan du blot vente med at åbne døren, til den sætter sig ned eller blot slapper af uden brug af kommandoer. Dermed bruger du det 'at åbne døren', som en belønning for at hunden gør som du vil have.
Der eksisterer ikke børnevenlige racer (læs; børnesikre)
Hunde er generelt venlige væsner, der ikke ønsker ballade. Børn bruger nogle gange hurtige bevægelser, skriger og ter sig, og det gør en hund usikker. Der findes racer der er mere tolerante end andre, og derfor kaldes børnevenlige. Dog må man forvente at alle hunde har deres grænse.
Hunde sender næsten altid dæmpende signaler, før de reagerer. Desværre er det langt fra alle børn og voksne, der lærer at se disse signaler. Når hunden ikke gider mere går den normalt sin vej for at få fred. Når barnet følger efter gentagne gange, begynde hunden at bruge advarende signaler, så som at knurre. Det gør ikke hunden til en bidsk hund, men barnet til en plageånd. Det er vigtigt at respekterer at hunden siger fra, når den ikke gider mere. Og det bør være det første man lærer sine børn.
Læs mere under ”Hundesprog” og “Børn og Hunde”.
Har man børn og hund samtidig skal man sørge for at lære barnet at respektere hunden og give den fred i eks. sin seng. Endvidere bør man aldrig lade barn og hund være alene sammen uden opsyn. Det kan gå grueligt galt. Og desværre er det næsten aldrig hundens skyld, når det går galt. Husk det er altid dit ansvar at der ikke opstår konflikter mellem din hund og børn.
Prøv dette spil med dine børn 'Hej Hund'.
Det er en myte at hunde har brug for meget motion
Verden i dag går utrolig højt op i sport og motion. Fitness på højt niveau for begge køn og børn i øvrigt. Vi læser alt om hvor godt motion er for os, og så knokler vi afsted for at tabe de ekstra kilo, eller for at holde os i form etc.
Hunde er ikke bygget til den form for stress som motion giver. Og for meget motion resulterer i en stresset hund. Der er forskel på hvor meget motion en voksen hund skal have frem for en hvalp. Der er også forskel på hvor meget motion en Chihuahua og en Hønsehund skal have.
Hunde har langt mere brug for at blive mentalt aktiveret; at snuse, at løse opgaver m.v. Dog har hunde også behov for at komme ud på opdagelse i form af de daglige gå-ture – og gerne nye steder engang imellem.
Hunde sover i gennemsnittet 17 timer i døgnet.
Læs mere under 'Motion og hunde' og 'Prægning af hvalpe'
Det er en myte, at hunde der sover meget keder sig
At kede sig er ikke reelt noget hunde foretager sig. De gør simpelt hen noget andet inden de begynder at kede sig.
En hund der sover 12-16 timer om dagen, er en sund hund. Gamle hunde og hvalpe sover generelt mere end voksne unge hunde. Husk at stimulere hunden dagligt og give den nye oplevelser engang imellem.
Det er en myte at hunde der sover meget er syge
Hunde sover generelt meget og en hund der sover, har brug for at sove, så lad den være i fred.
Såfremt din hund lige pludselig begynder at ændre sovevaner og sover mere eller mindre end normalt; så skal du tage den til dyrlægen. Tænk efter om I har foretaget jer noget specielt de sidste par dage; haft gæster, været på ferie, været ude, har været på udstilling, trænet, været til konkurrencer etc.
Det er en myte at du skal vinde over hunden for at den ser dig som leder
Generelt er det ufornuftigt at gå ind i konflikt med hunden, det drejer sig ikke om at vinde. Ved at kæmpe med hunden, opstår der kun mistillid.
Konflikter kan undgås ved at tænke smart – vi skulle jo gerne være mere intelligente end hunde; så tænk smart; hvordan opnår jeg det jeg vil uden at min hund bliver usikker og knurrer eller opfører sig på anden uønsket måde?
Bed ekempelvis hunden om end kommando – frem for at sige NEJ!
Væn hunden langsomt til nye ting, frem for at sætte hunden i situationer hvor den bliver usikker eller føler det som et overgreb.
Hunden føler ikke den er dig overlegen, hvis den vinder i trækkeleg. Men trække/ruskeleg med mennesker er form for ukontrolleret bidetræning og bør derfor undgås. Trækkeleg mellem hvalpe er en naturlig del af deres opvækst.
Ønsker man at lege sådan med sin hund/hvalp bør første skridt altid være at lære hunden at slippe på kommando!
Det er en myte at hunde der knurrer vil bestemme
At knurre er en del af hundens normale sprog og er et tegn på usikkerhed eller mistillid. Det fortæller at hunden ikke bryder sig om det der foregår lige nu. Respekter hunden og stop, gå væk, lad den være!
Hvalpe knurrer dog ind imellem i leg, hvis de eks.vis leger at de har fanget et bytte.
Få evt. hjælp udefra til at få genoprettet tilliden mellem dig og din hund.
Læs mere under 'Hundesprog'.
Det er en myte at hunden er dominant af natur
Hunde er ikke dominante af natur og slet ikke overfor mennesker. Det er anerkendt viden at dominans – når det foregår - kun foregår mellem artsfæller.
En hund tilpasser sig til forholdene den lever under. En hund har det ganske fornøjeligt med ikke at skulle være leder. Er forholdene ikke i orden, og handler ejeren utroværdigt eller uhensigtsmæssigt set med hundens øjne, kan den miste troen på sin leder, og kan derved udvise mere selvstændighed.
Den får mad, gåture og kæl og klap. Den er tryg og sikker og har legetøj, seng m.m. Hvorfor i alverden skulle den ønske at ændre det?
Den adfærd de fleste mennesker opfatter som dominant, kan oftest ændres ved at lave lidt om på hvordan man kommunikerer og samarbejder med hunden; men det skal man selvfølgelig have hjælp til.
Parring af ting og mennesker er IKKE tegn på dominans
Når hunde parrer/humper på genstande eller personer, er det oftest et klart tegn på at hunden har svært ved at kapere en situation og derfor er stresset.
I perioder hvor kønshormonerne stiger hos hundene (dvs. ved løbetid), stiger stressniveauet også. Humpning kan i den forbindelse være tegn på stress.
Læs mere under 'Kastration af hunde'.
Hvis man prøver at finde et mønster i hvor og i hvilke situationer hunden humper på ting/dyr/mennesker, kan man ofte finde årsagen. Det kan være den kun gør det når der er mange gæster på besøg, når den har leget for længe osv.
Det er en myte at du viser din hund hvem der bestemmer, ved at tage din hund i nakkeskindet eller lægge den ned
Myten er bl.a. opstået pga. gamle fejlagtige studier af ulve i fangenskab. Dyr i fangenskab udvikler til tider et voldsomt hierarki hvor vold er et af redskaberne. Dette sker ikke i naturen.
Dyr i fangenskab er i øvrigt ikke en naturlig flok, men en gruppe af individer, der er tvunget til at være sammen.
Vold har intet med lederskab at gøre. At udvise vold vil få hunden til at frygte dig. Resultatet vil blive en passiv hund, en aggressiv hund eller en problemhund med alt hvad det indebærer, inkl. en bidsk hund. BRUG ALDRIG VOLD overfor din hund. De er følsomme individer. Vold løser intet... Tværtimod, det skaber mistillid til dig.
Det er en myte at hunden ikke må komme i sengen og/eller møblerne
Det er en myte at hunden ikke må være sammen med familien om aftenen
Hunde er ekstremt sociale dyr, og at tvinge dem til at være alene eller ikke at måtte komme i nærheden af sin ejer er tortur. Dette gælder både ved spisetid, ved hygge om aftenen og når man går i seng.
Ønsker man ikke at have hunden i soveværelset, bør man afskærme med et børnegitter. Således kan hunden stadig høre og se sin familie, hvilket vil give den tryghed, da den er et flokdyr og ikke må være meget alene.
Kærlighed, tryghed og socialt samvær er essentielt for en sund hund.
Ønsker man ikke at have hunden i møblerne, skal man blot lade være at løfte den op som hvalp og holde sig til reglen.
I øvrigt er hunde komfortable dyr som kan lide at lægge behageligt, så sørg for gode bløde steder hunden kan sove. Hvis du ikke synes det er komfortabelt, så vil de fleste hunde heller ikke bryde sig om at ligge der.
Det er en myte at hunde ikke må forsvare sin mad, godbid, legetøj m.m.
I hundens verden er det den, der finder en genstand, der ejer den. Går man fra genstanden kan en anden overtage den.
Tæver med hvalpe lærer denne kunst fra sig, fra hvalpene er små. De ligger et stk. legetøj foran sig, og når hvalpen kommer og vil tage det, siger tæven fra. Vi er desværre ikke gode nok i vores timing og hundesprog til at efterligne tævehunden.
Når en voksen hund spiser, skal man lade den være i fred. Hvis den knurrer når den spiser, eller kigger op samtidig med at den sluger maden, er det tegn på at den nervøs for at man tager maden fra den; altså manglende tillid til ejeren.
Forsvarer den noget man ikke ønsker hunden skal indtage eller lege med, må man få dens opmærksomhed på anden vis og lede den væk fra det. Evt. knitre med en hundepose eller andet. Husk at belønne med godbid med det samme den smider det den havde i munden, for så kan du ende med at have en hund som samler alt op, for derefter at smide det og forvente en godbid som beløning.
Det er en myte at du skal skælde din hund ud når den har været løbet væk fra dig
Det eneste du opnår ved skæld ud er, at den får mistillid til dig – og næste gang du kalder, så kommer den i hvert fald ikke, for det fik den bare skæld ud for sidst.
Kilde: www.omhunden.dk
****************************************************************************************************************
Myter versus Fakta
Af Victoria Stilwill
https://positively.com/dog-training/myths-truths/myth-vs-fact/
"Alle hunde kan bide....."
Why Do Dogs
Bite?
There are
several possible reasons why a dog may bite a child (or anyone):
The dog is
protecting a possession, food or water dish or puppies
The dog is
protecting a resting place
The dog is
protecting its owner or the owner’s property
The child
has done something to provoke or frighten the dog (e.g., hugging the dog,
moving into the dog’s space, leaning or stepping over the dog, trying to take
something from the dog)
The dog is
old and grumpy and having a bad day and has no patience for the actions of a
child
The dog is
injured or sick
The child
has hurt or startled it by stepping on it, poking it or pulling its fur, tail
or ears
The dog has
not learned bite inhibition and bites hard by accident when the child offers
food or a toy to the dog
The child
and dog are engaging in rough play and the dog gets overly excited
The dog
views the child as a prey item because the child is running and/or screaming
near the dog or riding a bicycle or otherwise moving past the dog
The dog is
of a herding breed and nips while trying to “herd” the children
Fortunately,
there are steps we can take to address and avoid dog bites, from properly
training and socializing your pets, learning to read your dog’s body language
and recognizing the triggers to educating your children (and adults) on how –
or if – they should approach a dog and to safely interact with the dog.
Do Dogs
Bite “Out of the Blue”?
No, dogs do
not bite “out of the blue.” There are always warning signs before a bite
occurs, but these can be very subtle and may be missed by many people. A dog
may appear to tolerate being repeatedly mauled by a child and one day bites,
surprising everyone. Sometimes the warning have gone on for months or even
years before the dog finally loses its tolerance and bites.
Read this
great article by Madeline Gabriel that explains that dogs do not bite “out of
the blue”.
People who
own good dogs sometimes are lulled into a sense of safety and lax because “good
dogs don’t bite children…or do they?” Often times, once you determine that you
have a “Good Dog” you tend to leave it at that and just go about your life with
dog and baby. What we forget to consider is that just like us, dogs have good
days and bad days. On any given day, at any given time, your dog is somewhere
along that continuum. Have you ever had
one of those days? You know…bad day at
work, skipped lunch, lots of traffic, big headache? You come home and even something minor goes
wrong and isn’t it possible that you may “snap” at someone you love?
It’s the
same with dogs. Even over the course of a single day, your dog may go from
feeling relaxed and easy-going to tense and cranky — just like you. Living with babies and small children can
make for a gruelling day. That 4:30-6:30 time that used to be known as Happy
Hour? It’s often the LEAST happy time with tired parents, babies crying, kids
squabbling and a parent trying to make dinner. Everyone is a bit on edge and
that includes the family dog.
The trick
to preventing bites is to really look at your dog. What does he or she look
like when relaxed and happy? What changes when your dog is getting a little
worried or overwhelmed? Where is your dog right now on that body language
continuum? Take mental snapshots throughout the day and place your dog along
that line. Learn the body language
changes that signal moves in one direction or another. (See Look, Ma! My Body Is Talking to You!)
- See more
at: http://imnotamonster.org/any-dog-can-bite/#sthash.j6bSXcU9.dpuf
Learn
the difference in expressions of dogs that are happy and dogs that want to be
left alone:
·
Signs of Anxiety
·
Signs of Arousal
·
Signs of Aggression
·
Signs of Imminent Bite
·
Signs of a Happy Dog
Stress
to children that they should only pet happy dogs.
You may think that your dog loves to have the children climbing all over
him and hugging him, but if you see any of these signs, then you are being
warned that a bite could occur if the dog feels he has no other way of
defending himself. Do your dog and your child a favour and intervene if you
notice any of these signs.
- See more at: http://imnotamonster.org/any-dog-can-bite/#sthash.j6bSXcU9.dpuf
Signs
that you should take very seriously
that indicate that the dog is saying “I have been very patient with this child, but I am
nearing the end of my patience”, include:
·
The dog gets up and
moves away from the child
·
The dog turns his head
away from the child
·
The dog looks at you
with a pleading expression
·
You can see the
“whites” of the dogs eyes, in a half moon shape
·
The dog yawns while
the child approaches or is interacting with him
·
The dog licks his
chops while the child approaches or is interacting with him
·
The dog suddenly
starts scratching, biting or licking himself
·
The dog does a big
“wet dog shake” after the child stops touching him
From
For the Love of a Dog
,
by Patricia McConnell, PhD:
“I don’t know how many times
broken-hearted clients have told me that Barney had been doing so well; he’d handled
the noise and chaos of the family picnic all day long, but just when everyone
was about to leave, he fell apart and snapped, or nipped, or bit…If people could just see the signs of exhaustion or
worry on their dogs’ faces, there’d be a lot fewer bites in the world, a lot
fewer tears, and a lot more dogs living to old age.”
Avoid Trigger Stacking
Again:
dogs don’t bite “out of blue.” Sometimes nice dogs have just been subjected to
one too many stressors and the result is a bite.
Read
this article
by Casey Lomonaco that gives an
example of how this stress load can accumulate and how a dog bite is like a
games of Tetris:
“Bites are usually caused by an accumulation of stressors. Each time a
dog is exposed to a stressor, stress hormones are dumped into the brain. These
stress hormones are like the puzzle pieces in Tetris. They build up over time.
You have to actively reduce the stress (like a Tetris player clearing lines)
through management, desensitization, counter conditioning, and general stress
reduction techniques. If you are not taking steps to reduce the stress, it
begins to accumulate. The dumping of stress hormones into the brain leaves the
dog increasingly sensitized to stressors, which replicates the puzzle pieces
dropping faster and faster until you eventually reach the threshold. Soon, the
dog bites. The game is over.”
Stressors
vary in individual dogs. One dog may be stressed by loud noises, nail trimming,
men with beards, foul weather and a bad diet. Another dog may not seemingly
respond to these factors but is sensitive to visits to the vet’s office, small
children, cats, people that smell like beer, dogs walking past the fenced in
yard, and people approaching or entering the home. Every dog has stressors
(commonly called “triggers”) and a big part of effective behavioural
modification strategies is identifying these as accurately and thoroughly as
possible, which allows behaviour consultants and handlers to focus their
efforts most efficiently. Stressors, like Tetris pieces, accumulate over time.
When
the dog encounters one of his triggers, he might display low levels of stress
such as sniffing the ground or a tongue flick or he may show aggression such as
a freeze or a growl. When multiple stressors happen at the same time or very
close together, they will have a cumulative effect on the dog’s bite threshold.
This is called trigger stacking and it explains why a dog who has
never bitten in the past bites, because he was pushed over his bite threshold.
-
See more at: http://imnotamonster.org/any-dog-can-bite/#sthash.j6bSXcU9.dpuf
Never leave a child unattended with your
pets. You want to be PROACTIVE and ACTIVE. Even if you are familiar with dog
body language and communication, and know what to look for that indicates
stress or conflict, always be proactive and active. And remember, dogs do NOT
bite out of the blue. - See more at:
http://imnotamonster.org/any-dog-can-bite/#sthash.j6bSXcU9.dpuf
“Supervision is
not well understood,” said Dr. Ilana Reisner, a board-certified veterinary
behaviorist and consultant on dog bite safety who recently presented tips for
parents during a National Press Club event hosted by State Farm and the United States Postal
Service. “Dog owners in general are lacking knowledge about what kinds of
things dogs and children do that can be a risk. For example, they might go out
of the room and prepare lunch while the child is alone with the dog maybe 10-20 feet away, and that’s
not active supervision. If that’s one message we can get across I think it
would prevent a lot of bites.”
Breed bias can also play a factor in dog bites to children.
While breed bias often reflects unfounded fears toward breeds that may
be a danger to our kids, it can also work the other way, when dogs considered
to be “safe” are allowed to interact unsupervised with children.
“Just
because you happen to have a dog that’s considered to be a great family pet
doesn’t mean that it would be safe for a toddler to crawl up to that dog and
give him a hug when he’s sleeping,” Dr. Reisner said.
Of
course, proper interaction applies to adults as well. Check out this
illustration by
Doggie Drawings
on how NOT to greet a dog.
-
See more at: http://imnotamonster.org/any-dog-can-bite/#sthash.j6bSXcU9.dpuf
And
ALWAYS ask the person handling the dog if it’s OK to greet it before you walk
up to it.
Not every dog is OK with strangers coming up to them and that’s OK.
So, please remember:
·
Prevention is the way
to go
·
Dogs don’t bite “out
of the blue”:
Learn to read a dog’s body
language and teach children to only pet happy dogs
·
Supervise:
Never leave a child unattended with your pets, ever!
·
Breed does not matter:
Any dog can bite, regardless of breed. Just because a dog is a pug or a
poodle doesn’t mean it won’t bite if pushed too far
·
Know the triggers:
Know your dog’s triggers and do your best to avoid putting him into
those situations that just might push him too far. And watch out for overload
of triggers. Set your dog up for success and avoid accumulation of stressors by
taking your dog out of the situation
· Respect the dog: Every dog has the right to say no. If your dog is saying “no,” you have
to respect that. And teach your kids to respect that
At
every moment of the day, your dog is giving you a status update. Understanding
what a dog’s behaviour is telling us and how our behaviour may be interpreted
by a dog is essential to reducing dog bites. Know when they look stressed, and
be ready to remove them for the situation when necessary. You just need to look
and your dog will tell you.
Always remember to be your dog’s advocate. Let’s make your family and
community safer through education and responsible pet ownership.
____________________________________________________________________
Resources:
AVMA’s Dog Bite Prevention
AVMA’s Dog
Bites by the Numbers Infographic
Doggone Safe
Dog Bite Prevention brochure (PDF)
How Not to Greet A Dog poster
How Kids and Pets Should Not
Interact poster (PDF)
How Kids and Pets Should Interact
poster (PDF)
Teach Kids to Be a Tree
Sources: American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA), Doggone Safe
, Dr. Sophia Yin,For the Love of a Dog, Dogster, Yaletown Dog Training
-
See more at: http://imnotamonster.org/any-dog-can-bite/#sthash.j6bSXcU9.dpuf
Dog Guilt? Canines May Act Guilty, But Proof Of Animals' 'Secondary Emotions' Lacking
“His head was down, and he wasn’t making eye contact,” she explained. “Then, I found it. Under the bed.”
She had spent weeks training her dog, Henry, not to crap on the carpet. And there it was, under her bed. Evidence that he had transgressed. “He knew he had misbehaved, that’s why he was acting so guilty,” my friend insisted, sure that her dog knew that he had violated her rule.
Seventy-four percent of dog owners believe that their dogs experience guilt. One owner described her reasoning as follows: “I behave in a particular way when I feel guilty; my dog behaves in a similar way in equivalent circumstances; I know intuitively that my behavior is motivated by guilt; therefore the behavior I see in my dog is also accompanied by feelings of guilt.” Almost sixty percent of dog owners claim that their dogs’ guilty behavior leads them to scold their dog less.
There is plenty of evidence for what scientists refer to as primary emotions – happiness and fear, for example – in animals. But empirical evidence for secondary emotions like jealousy, pride, and guilt, is extremely rare in the animal cognition literature. The argument usually given for this lack of evidence is that such secondary emotions seem to require a level of cognitive sophistication, particularly when it comes to self-awareness or self-consciousness, that may not exist in non-human animals. In other words, guilt is complicated.
However, Charles Darwin observed that the types of behaviors associated with guilt – keeping one’s head down, and averting one’s gaze – are also seen in other social non-human primate species. On one hand, this should not be too surprising; guilt serves to reinforce social relationships and to minimize the effects of transgressions against social partners. These are important things for any social primate, whether monkey or man. The same patterns have been observed in wolves as well as domesticated dogs. In wolves, it is thought that guilt-related behaviors serve to reinforce social bonds, as in primates, by reducing conflict and eliciting tolerance from other members of the social group. The same could be true of dogs, though their social groups would primarily include humans.
The problem is that the display of the associated behaviors of guilt are not, themselves, evidence of the capacity to emotionally experience guilt. Do guilty behaviors follow from transgressions? If so, that would provide evidence that dogs may be aware of the violation. Or do guilty behaviors instead follow from scolding? This is a reasonable speculation, given that owners tend to scold their dogs less if their dogs “act guilty.” If this was the case, guilty behaviors could simply be the result of a learned association between a stimulus (such as crap on the carpet) and impending punishment – not so different from Clever Hans, the famous horse who relied on subtle behavioral clues from his owner in order to “succeed” at mental arithmetic problems. This is an empirical question that can be answered with a clever enough experiment.
Given that so many dog owners report that they believe that dogs who have broken a rule act guilty even before the dog’s transgression is discovered, and given that owners report that they are likely to scold their dogs less following the display of guilty behaviors, it stands to reason that dogs’ “guilty look” may just be a learned response. If scolded, a guilty look might simply serve to reduce the duration of the negative social interaction. Keeping this in mind, the researchers designed an experiment to answer two questions. First, would dogs who had misbehaved in their owners’ absences behave differently when greeting their owners than dogs who had not misbehaved? Second, would owners be able to determine, upon entering a room and relying solely on dog greeting behavior, whether or not their dogs had actually transgressed?A group of canine cognition researchers from Eotvos Lorand University in Budapest, led by Julie Hecht (blog, twitter), created just such an experiment, which they report in a paper in press in the journal Applied Animal Behavior Science.
In 2009, Barnard College psychologist Alexandra Horowitz found evidence that dogs were more likely to display behaviors associated with guilt after being scolded, whether or not they had actually been guilty of a perceived violation in the first place. However, in that experiment, dogs who had not misbehaved and were scolded displayed more guilt-associated behaviors than dogs who had been scolded and had actually misbehaved. And those behaviors also appeared in situations in which owners did not scold the dogs at all.
The new experiment was designed to address some of these problems. First, the researchers determined the baseline greeting behavior for each of sixty four dogs, when reunited with their owner after a brief separation. Then, the researchers enforced a social rule that food placed on a table was for humans, not for dogs. Then, dogs were left alone in the room with the food. Then, researchers assessed how dogs greeted their owners after eating or not eating the food. In addition, they assessed whether the owners could determine whether or not the dog had transgressed and eaten the food.
(A) The testing room. The barrier prevented the owner from seeing whether the dog had broken the rule. (B) Baseline greeting behavior is established. (C) Researchers present the food. (D) Researchers establish the rule. (E) The dog is told to sit. (F) The dog is left alone with the food.
The first finding validated the notion that dogs don’t always act guilty – only under certain circumstances. Dogs displayed significantly fewer guilt-related behaviors when being greeting by their owners, compared with when they were scolded. Next, the researchers wanted to see if dogs who had actually transgressed displayed more guilt behaviors than those who had not. The two groups were equally likely to act guilty! Together, these findings provide a potential answer to the first question: dogs who had misbehaved were not statistically likely to behave differently than dogs who had not misbehaved.
However, there was a subtle finding that may have actually provided evidence that the dogs who had misbehaved were more likely to show guilt-associated behaviors. But not in the way you might think. Each dog had three opportunities to greet their owners. Once before the rule had been established, a second time after the rule had been established and dogs had an opportunity to violate the rule, and a third time, after the rule had been established, but without an opportunity to violate the rule. While all dogs were more likely to act guilty during the second greeting while being scolded, only the dogs who had actually transgressed were more likely to continue acting guilty during the third greeting.
The next set of results are just as confusing. Almost seventy-five percent of owners were able to determine whether their dogs had misbehaved, which was significantly more than would have been the result of random guessing. However, it is possible that owners were relying on their dogs’ prior behavior to determine whether their dog misbehaved. Each dog had originally been presented with the food prior to the establishment of the social rule, and some of the dogs managed to eat the food before learning the rule. Perhaps, then, the owners were relying not on their dogs’ greeting behaviors at all, but on the dogs’ prior likelihood of eating the food! After removing those owners (who were aware that their dog had eaten the food before the rule was established) from the analysis, a different result emerged: owners were not successful in determining whether their dogs had misbehaved. They may as well have been guessing randomly.
Like many scientific studies, these results are a bit messy and fairly ambiguous. Why might that be? For one thing, the experiment was a highly unusual procedure for dogs and their owners. It is possible that there were so many new, salient stimuli in the testing room – including the unfamiliar researchers – that the dogs did not have enough working memory available to successfully encode the no-eating rule. It is also possible that previous in-test greetings or scoldings altered the later in-test greeting behaviors. The researchers acknowledge as much, writing, “an ambiguous social situation generated by repeated scoldings and greetings – not uncommon for experiments investigating guilty behavior – could affect the behavioral displays in question in a complex way.” While not uncommon for these experiments, these situations are far removed from more typical dog-owner interactions and the environments in which they occur.
Taken together, these results both support the common anecdote, that dogs act guilty prior to their owners’ awareness of the violation, as well as the earlier scientific findings that, regardless of transgression, dogs act guilty in response to being scolded by their owners.
Future research, according to the researchers, ought to investigate these questions in a familiar environment rather than in a laboratory, and should examine a social rule that has already been established between an owner and a dog. It may still be some time before we can know for certain whether dogs can experience guilt, or whether people can determine if a dog has violated a rule prior to finding concrete evidence of it.
But! – dog owners, take heart. Even that great observer of animal behavior Konrad Lorenz wrote of the dog’s “guilty look,” saying that we can “assume with certainty that it hides a guilty conscience.”
Gulahund eller DINOS.....
Nogle hunde har brug for plads
Hvis du ser en hund med gule blonder, gult bånd, gult tørklæde eller gult på snor, sele eller halsbånd så giv hunden plads. Du skal ikke gå hen til hunden eller dens ejer - og slet ikke hvis du selv har hund med. Har du ydermere en løs hund. så kald den til dig - for løse hunde skal jo være under fuld kontrol og kunne kaldes ind, selvom en anden hund er mere spændende. Ejer og hund har med den gule markering tilkendegivet, at de af en eller anden grund ikke ønsker deres hund(e) i nærheden af andre hunde. Hvad der er for tæt på ved kun hundens ejer.
Hvorfor give nogle hunde mere plads?
Den kan være syg. Den kan være i træning - for eksempel til servicehund. Den er måske under rehabilitering. Hunden kan have dårlige erfaringer med andre hunde - måske især i snor. Der er mange grunde til, at nogle hunde har brug for lidt ekstra plads - også uden at ejeren behøver at forklare sig.
Vær venlig at respektere dem.
G iv dem mere plads eller tid til at flytte sig.
Gule aftegninger på hunden betyder kort sagt:
min hund har brug for lidt mere plads end andre!
Læs mere på nedenstående sider:
Den danske side:
http://holdafstandtak.dk/velkommen
Poster, der kan udskrives:
http://holdafstandtak.dk/User_files/7497718c6b7b9388fc5c08271dc34d44.pdf
Den svenske side:
http://www.gulahund.se/default_dk.asp
På Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/215592045230042/
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Yellowdog-Some-dogs-need-space/401739849882648
https://www.facebook.com/pages/DINOS-Dogs-in-Need-of-Space/251550661567160
DINOS - Dogs In Need Of Space eller Gula hund/ Yellow dog..... Budskabet er det samme
DINOS - Dogs In Need Of Space eller Gula hund/ Yellow dog..... Budskabet er det samme
Artikel fra Den danske dyrlægeforening fra 2009 om hundebid -af ældre dato og før ændring af hundeloven men stadig relevant læsning
Dobie's story
Dobie started growling at children while on walks. On a recommendation by his vet, his concerned owner brought him to see a trainer who followed traditional training methods. Here she was taught to correct Dobie's growling by giving a short, quick yank on a choke collar and saying "No!" After a week or so of following this advice, she was very happy to see that Dobie had stopped growling at children.
And then a while later, a child ran up to the dog while on a walk and reached out her hand to pet him. Because Dobie didn't growl, the child was not hesitant and the owner was not concerned. Suddenly Dobie turned and bit the child's hand. His owner described this incident later as "It happened out of nowhere!"
Growling is a valuable warning signal
Did it really come out of nowhere? Not at all. Dobie's growling was a way of telling his owner, "I am afraid of these children who come by while we are on a walk." It was also his way of telling the children, "Please get away from me." For whatever reason, Dobie had begun to perceive children as a threat. Correcting his growling forced him to inhibit his warnings, but his feelings about children did not change. Therefore it was only a matter of time that some child would step over his fear threshhold, and without the warning growl Dobie's only way to cope was to escalate to a bite.
Correcting a growl, snarl, or even a lunge/snap is like putting a bandage on an infected wound. It will disguise the problem for a period of time, but not solve it - in fact, it will fester and get worse. Aggressive acts are simply reactions to a fearful stimulus. Like humans, when dogs become fearful they have the choice of fight or flight. Some dogs hide behind their owners' legs. Others act out in an aggressive manner.
When a warning display is inhibited and escape is not an option, the dog (or human) who feels helpless will shut down. Though Dobie appeared to be in no distress, one experienced in reading dog body language would have seen his signals. His head was down, his ears were tensely held close to his head, the whites were showing in his eyes, and his tail was held clamped down. Feeling cornered and with no way to express it, he panicked and bit the hand that he perceived as attacking him.
Not only does correction inhibit the dog's way of communicating his discomfort, the owner's tone and body language exacerbate it. To the dog, the child's approach not only makes him nervous, it causes his owner to tense up and yell. This is powerful confirmation to the dog whose owner is his whole world that his fears are well-founded.
Heal the cause, not the symptom
Fortunately, due to modern research in behavioral science, more humane and effective ways of dealing with aggressive acts have been developed. These methods are grounded in the use of desensitization and counter conditioning. On the Clicker Train USA website, it states: "We want to counter condition our fearful dog to accept other dogs. By combining counter conditioning and desensitization we can accomplish that. We will start exposing our dog to other dogs at a very low level - in this case a far enough distance (that's the densensitization part). In addition, we will give the dog very tasty treats when he sees the other dogs (that's the counter conditioning part). Gradually, we can convince the dog that other dogs mean good treats."
Leslie McDevitt, MLA, CDBC, CPDT took this concept one step further when she developed the Look At That (LAT) game detailed in her book, "Control Unleashed." Previously counter conditioning protocols required the dog to look away from the aversive stimuli (person or dog that frightened him). With this method, the dog is actually rewarded for looking AT the object of fear. The result is that the dog starts to seek opportunities to look at, and even eventually approach, the object that used to cause him to growl, lunge, or snap. Instead of thinking, "uh oh, here comes something scary," his response changes to "oh yay, here comes something that makes GOOD things happen!"
Kellie Snider, MS, the Manager of Animal Behavior Programs at the SPCA of Texas, developed Constructional Aggression Treatment (CAT) as her graduate thesis under the direction of behavior analyst Jesus Rosales-Ruiz, PhD. In this revolutionary treatment, the dog is rewarded for calm behavior by allowing him to increase his distance from the feared object. Since it's very important that the dog be kept below his fear threshhold at all times, the procedure requires that the initial distance be easy for the dog to handle, therefore helping to increase his feeling of safety when in the vicinity of the person or dog that frightens him.
On her website Kellie states, "In the CAT procedure we use the reinforcer the dog is already working for. It is usually distance from the aversive stimuli. In our treatment we provide the outcome he wants only when he behaves in safe, friendly ways." As with the LAT method, there is an additional benefit that is not a result of procedures using corrections. "But a funny thing happens in the treatment," she continues. "He learns to like other people and dogs."
Local Orlando area help
If your dog is displaying aggressive behavior, you need to see a trainer/behaviorist who is both a practitioner of dog-friendly methods based in modern behavioral science and also experienced with aggression issues.
If these issues aren't addressed, it could result in a human or other dog receiving a serious bite. One of our local behaviorists is Belinda DeLaby, CBC, CPDT, the owner of Canine Action, Inc. in Oviedo. Belinda has been training dogs for 15 years and has extensive experience dealing with aggression.
Other resources for finding a good trainer who has the necessary experience and education in modern methods for aggression issues can be found at the page of the Dog Willing website. These listings include Orlando area trainers and behaviorists, but also list international resources.
What can you do?
Meanwhile there are several important things that you, the owner, should do if your dog is displaying aggressive behaviors towards a human or other dog:
-
Avoid contact with whatever it is your dog fears. If you usually walk him in a heavily populated area and he's reactive to strange people, choose another more quiet place to walk him. The more exposure he has without therapy, the worse his fears are likely to get.
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If you suddenly come upon an aversive stimuli (something that makes your dog react aggressively), STAY CALM. He will be taking his cues from you. Keep breathing, keep your voice calm and cheerful, and take him out of the situation as quickly and nonchalantly as you can. If possible, don't put any tension on his leash - that tension travels right through him.
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Call your local experienced behaviorist as soon as possible and make an appointment for evaluation.
Lastly, don't assume that just because your dog is displaying aggressive behaviors, you have an aggressive dog. He is not a bad dog, he is a dog with a problem that can very often be resolved with the right behavioral modification therapy.
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